Remember those stays that turned out hideously too big, despite what the measurements SHOULD have been?
Okay, so I measured, and I did not accidentally add 10". I made Rich double check my math and he agrees. Adding 5" was too much. Last night, I sewed up my mockup #2 and tried it on for size.
Oh hey, actual compression and shaping! Well, this is looking more positive. Less saggy. All that good stuff.
Why am I posting such crappy pictures when I have a tripod and a self timer? Or heck, even a husband who should be able to take pictures for me? Bad blogger!
Anyway, yes! Gap! It's about 4.5" at the widest point, which is just about perfect when you're aiming to keep shrinking over time. I am about 4,000% certain that I do not want to make a new pair of stays anytime in the foreseeable future, so while many people aim for a 2" gap, and some even prefer their stays to lace completely shut, I have no interest in that since I've got about 40 more pounds to shed and am obstinate about my sewing.
So, alterations. Want to know what I did? I added 1/2" inch in the center front. That's it. This is Baumgarten's pattern, unedited except for one. half. inch.
Which should have been at least 10" too small in the bust, and 6" or so in the waist. So what happened?
Well, I'll tell you. Squish. Squish happened. Which is something I entirely neglected to take into account. See, I'm relatively certain Baumgarten gives the measurements of her actual source garment, rather than the size the wearer would have been. And, as I mentioned, I still have about 40lbs I'd like to get rid of, which in practical terms translates to quite a bit of fluff hanging around still. Also there's the fact that I have very soft tissue in my bust--and it's gotten even softer with weight loss.
So what happened with my last mockup was that I added 5" overall, meaning the actual mockup had a bust of 39" or so, and a waist of about 34". My current measurements aren't that far off, at 44"-36". Once you start lacing things up, my chub easily and obligingly squashed about, et voila. No gap. If I'd added 10" accidentally, I'd have been able to fit an arm down the side. The good news is that I'm not crazy! I did really only add 5". The bad news is that I've apparently forgotten how to fit corsets, or at least forgot temporarily while being distracted by math. The better news is that I've got a mockup that I think will work just fine, and am ready to start testing stitches and various marking techniques on my real fabrics. Wish me luck!
P.S. Here's a picture of my dog being cute with another project. Which I need to write about! The project, not the dog.